Capriccioli

Capriccioli is the Costa Smeralda at its most user friendly. Instead of one exposed strand it is a pair of small, soft sand coves divided by a low spur of granite, each backed by the fragrant juniper and scrub that gives this coast its character. The split is the clever part: when a breeze ruffles one side, the other usually stays sheltered, so there is almost always calm water to be found.

The water is shallow and clear, the entry gentle, and one cove looks out to the little islands of Soffi and Mortorio across protected sea. That makes it one of the easiest beaches on the coast for families, and unlike the wilder bays nearby it comes with a kiosk, a lounger concession and parking close to the sand. You can arrive, settle and stay without a long carry across the scrub.

On crowds, Capriccioli is popular precisely because it is so easy, so high summer days fill the central sand by late morning. The two cove layout helps spread people out, and June and September deliver the same clear sheltered water with far more room. As everywhere on the Costa Smeralda, an early start wins the parking and the calmest hours.

Who should skip it: anyone seeking a wild, empty bay with no development in sight, since Capriccioli is gentle and serviced rather than untouched. Who should go: families, nervous swimmers, and anyone who wants Costa Smeralda water with a kiosk and a parking space within reach.

Capriccioli lies on the Costa Smeralda south of Porto Cervo, signposted off the coast road between Romazzino and Cala di Volpe. A short road leads to parking close behind the beach.

A car or transfer is the practical way to arrive, as public transport to the bay is limited. The parking sits near the sand, which is part of the family appeal, but it fills early in peak season, so come in the morning for the calmest water and an easy space.