Panormos Beach

Panormos is the north coast beach that went from quiet to fashionable without losing all of its space. It is a long, golden, partly natural stretch a short drive from town, and unlike the packed south coast coves it still has room to lay a towel away from the action if you want to. That balance of scene and space is what makes it work.

The action is concentrated at one end, where Principote runs a polished, bohemian style beach club and restaurant. Think daybeds, a long lazy lunch that drifts into the afternoon, attentive service and a stylish crowd, all set against the open sweep of the bay. Walk away from it and the beach opens out into plain, undeveloped sand for those who just want the sea.

The honest caveat is the wind. Panormos faces north, so it catches the meltemi that funnels across the Aegean in summer, and an afternoon that started glassy can turn breezy and choppy by mid afternoon. On a calm day the water is clear and lovely, on a windy one the club is still a pleasure but the swim is less so, so it pays to check the forecast.

Who it suits: stylish day trippers who want a chic daybed lunch with room to breathe, couples and groups who like a scene that is not wall to wall, and anyone who prefers the open north coast to the crowded south.

Who should skip it: families wanting calm shallow water should choose Ornos, and anyone sensitive to wind should favour the sheltered south coast beaches on breezier days.